Mitsubishi

Pajero NM-NP (3rd gen) inspection checklist

2000-2006 · 11 things to check before you buy, taken from this car's known problems.

All engines

mediumFront lower ball joints / IFS front-end wear

Look for: The independent front suspension's lower ball joints, control-arm bushes and CV joints wear with km and off-road use, causing clunks, vague steering and tyre wear.

If you find it: Replace ball joints, bushes and CVs as needed; check the front end thoroughly pre-purchase.

From 120k+ km · ~$400-1200

mediumRust - rear quarters, tailgate and chassis (coastal)

Look for: Despite the monocoque body, rust appears around the rear wheel arches, tailgate, sills and underbody on coastal or hard-worked examples.

If you find it: Inspect carefully pre-purchase; favour dry-climate, well-maintained cars; wash down after beach/mud use.

Any · Varies

mediumAutomatic transmission wear (INVECS-II)

Look for: The 4-speed and 5-speed INVECS-II autos can suffer harsh shifts, shudder or failure when fluid is neglected or the vehicle is worked hard towing.

If you find it: Regular ATF changes (don't run 'sealed for life'); fit a transmission cooler if towing; rebuild if shifting poorly.

From 150k+ km · ~$1500-4000

3.2L DiD 4M41 turbo diesel (NP)

highTiming chain guide wear / chain jump

Look for: The 4M41 uses a hard-plastic upper timing-chain guide in the head to damp noise. Over time the plastic wears thin and breaks away; the debris can jam the chain set, causing the chain to jump timing and the valves to hit the pistons - a catastrophic engine failure. A worn tensioner gives a tell-tale rattle on start-up/idle.

If you find it: Inspect the chain/guide and tensioner; measure chain slack (replace when clearance drops toward ~9mm). Replace guides, tensioner and chain preventively as a set. Treat any timing rattle as urgent.

From 150k-250k km · ~$2000-4000 (preventive) / $10000+ (after failure)

highInjector failure / melted pistons

Look for: Worn or failing injectors cause rough idle, smoke, hard starting and power loss; symptoms can come on quickly. A leaking/over-fuelling injector can melt a piston and blow the engine. Many specialists recommend replacing injectors at 'half life'.

If you find it: Replace injectors (set) at the first sign of trouble or preventively around 200k km; use quality fuel and good filtration.

From 200k-250k km (can be earlier) · ~$2000-4000 (injectors) / much more if a piston is melted

mediumInjection pump wear

Look for: The mechanical/rotary injection pump is regarded as the engine's weakest high-km link, causing hard starting, rough running and lost power as it wears.

If you find it: Diesel-specialist pump overhaul or replacement; a pre-emptive rebuild is cheaper than a new pump.

From 250k+ km · ~$1500-3000

mediumEGR / intake carbon build-up

Look for: Soot from the EGR accumulates in the intake manifold over time, restricting airflow and dulling response.

If you find it: Intake/EGR clean; catch-can and (where legal) EGR management help.

From 120k+ km · ~$300-800

2.8L 4M40 turbo diesel (NM)

highOverheating / cracked cylinder head

Look for: The 2.8 4M40 has a well-known habit of overheating and cracking the cylinder head, particularly when worked hard or with a tired cooling system.

If you find it: Keep the cooling system fresh (radiator, thermostat, coolant); pressure-test and inspect the head before purchase. A cracked head means a rebuild or replacement.

Any (worse if cooling neglected) · ~$2000-5000

mediumUnderpowered / strained when loaded

Look for: At 92kW the 2.8 struggles to move a heavy wagon when loaded or towing, leading owners to push it hard - which compounds the overheating risk.

If you find it: Don't overload; prefer the 3.2 DiD if you need to tow or load heavily.

Any · Not a fault

3.5L 6G74 V6 petrol

highTiming belt neglect (interference engine)

Look for: The 6G74 is belt-driven and an interference design - a snapped or skipped belt bends valves and can wreck the engine. Many high-km examples have uncertain belt history.

If you find it: Replace the timing belt, tensioner and water pump on schedule (~90k km); confirm belt history before buying.

From 90k km / overdue belts · ~$600-1200 (service) / engine damage if it snaps

mediumGDI carbon build-up / fussy running

Look for: GDI (direct-injection) versions can suffer intake/valve carbon and become fussy on lower-quality fuel, causing rough running and hesitation.

If you find it: Use quality fuel, decarbonise as needed; some owners prefer the non-GDI builds.

From 120k+ km · ~$300-1000

4 minor things (low severity)

lowSuper Select II 4WD selector / vacuum actuation faults

Look for: The Super Select transfer case and front-axle engagement (vacuum/actuator) can develop faults - the system may not select or disengage modes cleanly.

If you find it: Service the transfer case, check vacuum lines/actuator and front free-wheeling hubs; verify all modes engage on a test drive.

From 120k+ km · ~$200-1000

lowInterior trim and dash cracking (heat/UV)

Look for: Dash top and plastic trim can crack and fade under sustained Australian heat and UV.

If you find it: Dash cap or replacement; not structural.

Any · ~$200-800

lowAge-related ancillary wear

Look for: These NM diesels are now old and high-km - expect perished hoses, weeping seals, tired suspension bushes and worn ancillaries.

If you find it: Budget for a consumables refresh on purchase.

Any (age) · Varies

lowFuel thirst

Look for: Real-world 14-17 L/100km, worse when towing - not a fault but a real cost.

If you find it: Fit LPG or accept the fuel bill.

Any · Running cost

From FlamingCars' Mitsubishi Pajero guide. It's a checklist of known problems, not a replacement for a professional pre-purchase inspection. Your ticks are kept in this browser only.