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Subaru

WRX / STI

VA· 2014-2021 sedan
Price (AUD)
$18k-$55k
Body styles
4-door sedan
Drivetrain
Symmetrical AWD (active torque-split, WRX), Symmetrical AWD (DCCD driver-controlled centre diff, STI)
Origin
Japan
Built in
Japan

Overview

The VA was the first WRX sold as a standalone model rather than a hot Impreza, launched here in 2014. Australia got two clearly separated cars: the WRX with the new direct-injection 2.0L FA20DIT (197kW), offered with a 6-speed manual or a CVT (Subaru's 'Sport Lineartronic' with stepped manual modes); and the WRX STI with the carried-over 2.5L EJ257 (221kW), manual only, with a driver-controlled centre diff (DCCD), bigger Brembos and a wing. A facelift around MY18 brought a restyled nose, suspension tweaks and on STI a power bump to ~ same headline figure with detail changes; the STI ran out as the EJ25 Final Edition in 2021. Both engines are quick and characterful but neither is bulletproof: the FA20DIT can suffer ringland/rod-bearing failure under low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI) and the older EJ257 carries the long-standing Subaru ringland and rod-knock reputation, both made worse by aggressive tunes and missed oil changes. Buy on service history, not colour - a well-kept, stock-tune example of either is far safer than a cheap modified one.

Engines & variants

WRX 2.0L FA20DIT (6MT)

Engine
2.0L direct-injection turbo DOHC boxer-four (twin-scroll turbo)
Config
Flat-4 turbo
Displacement
1998cc
Power
197kW @ 5600rpm
Torque
350Nm @ 2400-5200rpm
Drivetrain
Symmetrical AWD (viscous-LSD centre, active split)
Economy
9.2 L/100km combined (claimed), 10-12 real world
Transmission
6MT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Chain-driven

Pros

  • Strong, modern direct-injection turbo - flexible and quick
  • Manual avoids all CVT concerns
  • Genuinely great AWD chassis and grip
  • Cheaper to buy and run than the STI, lower insurance

Cons

  • FA20DIT is sensitive to low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI) and tuning
  • Direct injection means intake-valve carbon build-up over time
  • Turbo oil-feed banjo-bolt filter can clog and starve the turbo
  • Clutch and heavy-clutch feel wears on hard-driven examples

Known problems

high
Engine failure from low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI) / ringland and rod bearings
The FA20DIT can suffer ringland, piston and rod-bearing failure, typically from low-speed pre-ignition under high load at low rpm (around 1400-2400rpm) - the risk rises sharply with aftermarket tunes, cheap fuel or extended oil intervals. Documented AU cases include short-block replacement around 100,000km costing roughly $11k, with warranty claims sometimes disputed.
Fix: Keep the factory tune (or a reputable conservative tune), run quality 98 RON, change oil on time (or more often), and avoid lugging the engine. A failed engine needs a short block or full rebuild.
From Any (worse 80k-150k km, or after a tune) · ~$8000-14000 (short block / engine)
high
Turbo oil-feed banjo-bolt filter clogging
The small mesh filter in the turbo oil-feed banjo bolt can clog with oil sludge and starve the turbo of oil, leading to bearing failure and a 'walking' turbine - a long-standing Subaru turbo issue carried into this era.
Fix: Inspect/clean or remove the banjo filter per Subaru TSB guidance, keep oil changes frequent and use the correct oil; replace the turbo if it has been starved.
From 60k+ km (neglected oil changes) · ~$300 (clean) to $2500+ (turbo)
medium
Direct-injection intake-valve carbon build-up
Like other DI turbo engines, the FA20DIT has no port fuel washing the intake valves, so carbon accumulates and can cause rough idle, misfires and lost power over time.
Fix: Walnut-blast intake-valve clean; a catch-can helps slow it.
From 100k+ km · ~$400-1200

WRX 2.0L FA20DIT (CVT)

Engine
2.0L direct-injection turbo DOHC boxer-four with Sport Lineartronic CVT
Config
Flat-4 turbo
Displacement
1998cc
Power
197kW @ 5600rpm
Torque
350Nm @ 2400-5200rpm
Drivetrain
Symmetrical AWD (active torque-split via CVT)
Economy
8.6 L/100km combined (claimed), 9-11 real world
Transmission
CVT (Sport Lineartronic)
Timing chain / belt / gear
Chain-driven

Pros

  • Easy daily driver with stepped manual/paddle modes
  • Slightly better claimed economy than the manual
  • Same strong FA20DIT performance and AWD grip
  • Smooth in traffic, popular as a do-everything car

Cons

  • Heat is the enemy of the CVT - hard/modified use shortens its life
  • Valve-body and torque-converter issues prompted an extended CVT warranty
  • Shares the FA20DIT LSPI/ringland and turbo banjo-bolt risks
  • Purists prefer the manual; CVT can feel disconnected when pushed

Known problems

high
CVT (Lineartronic) overheating / valve-body and torque-converter faults
The CVT is heat-sensitive; valve-body failures and torque-converter shudder/judder are the known faults, severe enough that Subaru extended the CVT warranty on affected cars. Modified or track-driven WRXs are most at risk.
Fix: Fit a CVT fluid cooler if used hard, service the fluid (it is NOT lifetime in practice), and verify the extended-warranty status; failure means valve-body or full transmission replacement.
From 80k+ km (sooner if modified or worked hard) · ~$3000-8000+ (transmission)
high
Engine failure from LSPI / ringland and rod bearings
Same FA20DIT vulnerability as the manual car - low-speed pre-ignition under load can crack ringlands and spin rod bearings, with risk amplified by tunes, poor fuel and long oil intervals.
Fix: Stay near stock tune, run 98 RON, shorten oil-change intervals, avoid lugging; rebuild/short-block on failure.
From Any (worse after a tune) · ~$8000-14000 (short block / engine)
high
Turbo oil-feed banjo-bolt filter clogging
The turbo oil-feed banjo filter can clog with sludge and starve the turbo, the same issue as on the manual WRX.
Fix: Inspect/clean or remove per Subaru TSB, frequent oil changes, correct oil grade; replace a starved turbo.
From 60k+ km (neglected oil changes) · ~$300 (clean) to $2500+ (turbo)

WRX STI 2.5L EJ257 (6MT)

Engine
2.5L turbo DOHC AVCS boxer-four (STI-tuned, port injection)
Config
Flat-4 turbo
Displacement
2457cc
Power
221kW @ 6000rpm
Torque
407Nm @ 4000rpm
Drivetrain
Symmetrical AWD (DCCD driver-controlled centre diff)
Economy
10.4 L/100km combined (claimed), 12-14 real world
Transmission
6MT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (interference - replace on interval)

Pros

  • Driver-focused: 6-speed manual only, DCCD centre diff, big Brembos
  • Iconic EJ25 boxer character and proper rally-bred AWD
  • Hugely strong aftermarket and specialist support
  • Holds value well, especially Final Edition and clean stock cars

Cons

  • EJ257 carries the classic ringland and rod-knock reliability reputation
  • Timing belt is an interference belt that MUST be changed on interval
  • Thirsty and needs 98 RON
  • Heavily modified examples are common and risky - many have tired engines

Known problems

high
Ringland failure (pistons)
The EJ257's cast pistons have relatively brittle ringlands; knock/detonation from aggressive tunes, poor fuel, lean conditions or a heat soak can shatter a ringland, causing blow-by, smoke and power loss. It is the defining EJ25 failure mode and the reason stock-tune history matters so much.
Fix: Run 98 RON, avoid cheap tunes, monitor knock, keep the engine cool and well-fuelled. Repair is a forged-piston rebuild for longevity.
From Any (often after tuning / detonation) · ~$8000-15000 (rebuilt engine)
high
Spun rod / main bearings (rod knock)
The EJ25 is prone to rod-bearing wear and spun bearings ('rod knock'), aggravated by oil starvation, over-revving, sustained high load and missed oil changes - a deep knocking noise warns of it.
Fix: Strict oil maintenance and quality oil; on knock, a bottom-end rebuild with upgraded bearings is required.
From 100k+ km (or earlier if tuned/oil-starved) · ~$8000-15000 (rebuild)
high
Timing belt failure (interference engine)
Unlike the chain-driven FA20, the EJ257 uses a timing belt and is an interference design - a snapped or skipped belt bends valves and wrecks the engine. Many used cars are overdue.
Fix: Replace the timing belt, tensioner, idlers and water pump on schedule (and verify it was done before purchase).
From Every ~100,000-105,000km / by age · ~$800-1800 (belt kit + water pump)
medium
Turbo oil-feed banjo-bolt clogging / turbo wear
Same banjo-bolt oil-feed filter clogging risk as other Subaru turbos can starve the turbo of oil and cause bearing failure.
Fix: Inspect/clean or remove the banjo filter per TSB, keep oil fresh; replace the turbo if damaged.
From 100k+ km · ~$300-2500

Common problems (all variants)

medium
Wheel bearings
WRX/STI wheel bearings are a well-known wear item across this generation, often announced by a droning hum that changes with cornering load - sticky tyres and enthusiastic driving accelerate it.
Fix: Replace the affected hub/bearing; do them in pairs if both are noisy.
From 80k-120k+ km · ~$300-700 per corner
medium
Clutch wear and judder (manual)
The manual clutch wears with hard launches and traffic; juddering, slipping and a high bite point are the symptoms, and worn examples are common given how these cars are driven.
Fix: Replace the clutch (and inspect the flywheel); a quality kit on a stock-tune car lasts well.
From 60k-120k km · ~$1500-3000
high
Modified / abused history
A large share of used WRX/STI VAs have been tuned, launched, tracked or thrashed - the single biggest risk when buying, because aggressive tunes and abuse drive the ringland, rod-bearing, turbo and driveline failures above.
Fix: Favour stock, full-service-history cars; get a pre-purchase inspection, compression/leak-down test and an ECU/tune check before buying.
From Any · ~Varies (potentially major)
low
Suspension bushes, dampers and driveline wear
Bushes, dampers, drop links and driveline components wear with spirited use and rough roads, giving clunks, knocks and vague handling.
Fix: Refresh worn bushes, links and dampers; inspect CVs and diffs.
From 100k+ km · ~$500-2000
low
Brake wear (STI Brembos)
The STI's Brembo brakes are strong but pads and rotors wear quickly under hard driving, and replacement parts cost more than the WRX's brakes.
Fix: Quality pads/rotors; bed them in properly and flush fluid regularly if driven hard.
From 40k+ km · ~$600-1500