Back to catalog
Nissan

Skyline

R32· 1989-1994 coupe Caution
Price (AUD)
$15k-$250k+
Body styles
2-door coupe, 4-door sedan
Drivetrain
RWD, ATTESA E-TS AWD
Origin
Japan
Built in
Japan

Overview

Only the BNR32 GT-R was ever officially delivered new to Australia - Nissan Australia brought in exactly 100 cars in 1991 to homologate it for Group A touring car racing, where it earned the 'Godzilla' nickname after demolishing the field at Bathurst. Every other R32 on the Australian market - GTS-T (HCR32), GTS-25, GTS-4 and the naturally-aspirated GTS - is a used grey-import brought in privately under the 15-year/SEVS rules from the late 2000s onward, so build quality, history and hidden rust vary enormously car to car. All variants share the legendary RB straight-six family, but condition and modification history matter more than almost any other car in this guide: most have been tuned, tracked or both, and the famous RB26 oil-pump and ceramic-turbine weaknesses turn a bargain into a grenade fast. Buy the very best example you can, with documented history and a compression/leak-down test, not the cheapest. Values for genuine GT-Rs have exploded into modern-classic territory; the turbo GTS-T remains the affordable RWD entry point.

Engines & variants

2.6L RB26DETT GT-R (BNR32)

Engine
2.6L DOHC twin-turbo I6 (twin Garrett T28 ceramic turbos, air-to-air intercooler)
Config
I6 twin-turbo
Displacement
2568cc
Power
206kW @ 6800rpm (gentleman's-agreement '280PS' underrated)
Torque
353Nm @ 4400rpm
Drivetrain
ATTESA E-TS AWD
Economy
11-14 L/100km real world
Transmission
5MT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (cam timing belt - replace ~100,000km)

Pros

  • Iconic Group A homologation legend - the original 'Godzilla'
  • ATTESA E-TS AWD with Super-HICAS gives huge real-world grip
  • RB26 is enormously strong in the bottom end and tunable to 400kW+
  • Genuine AU-delivered cars (100 built) are blue-chip modern classics
  • Five-speed manual, mechanical and rewarding to drive

Cons

  • Early oil-pump drive collar is a known engine-killer if revved hard
  • Factory ceramic turbine wheels shatter under detonation/over-boost
  • Almost every survivor is modified - find one and verify the work
  • Expensive parts, specialist labour and sky-high values/insurance
  • Timing belt is an interference design - skipped service is catastrophic

Known problems

high
Oil pump drive collar failure (pre-May 1993)
Early RB26 (and RB25/RB20) use a narrow oil-pump drive that only minimally engages the crank-snout flats. With the 8000rpm redline and a mis-shift over-rev, the drive can crack the pump gears, oil pressure collapses and the engine spins a bearing. Nissan didn't widen the crank snout until May 1993, so the AU-delivered 1991 cars are the vulnerable design.
Fix: Fit a billet crank collar and an upgraded (N1 or aftermarket) oil pump, and monitor oil pressure. Treat this as mandatory before any spirited driving.
From Any - worse with high-rpm use · ~$8000-20000 (rebuild) / $1500-3000 (preventive collar + pump)
high
Ceramic turbine wheel failure
The factory T28 turbos use ceramic exhaust wheels for fast spool, but they shatter under detonation or boost much above ~1.0 bar, sending debris and leaving a turbo (or two) dead. Many tuned cars have already grenaded the originals.
Fix: Replace with steel-wheel hi-flow or aftermarket turbos; never run boost on ceramics, and ensure tuning/fuel quality prevents knock.
From Any (detonation/over-boost dependent) · ~$3000-7000 (pair of turbos)
medium
Gearbox synchro and clutch wear
The 5-speed manual wears 2nd/3rd synchros and the clutch hard, especially on launched/tracked cars. Crunchy downshifts are common on tired examples.
Fix: Synchro/gearbox rebuild and a quality clutch; inspect for AWD driveline play during the test drive.
From 100k+ km / track use · ~$1500-4000

2.0L RB20DET GTS-T Type-M (HCR32) - import

Engine
2.0L DOHC single-turbo I6 (Nissan ECCS EGI)
Config
I6 turbo
Displacement
1998cc
Power
158kW @ 6400rpm
Torque
263Nm @ 3200rpm
Drivetrain
RWD
Economy
9-12 L/100km real world
Transmission
5MT, 4AT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (cam timing belt - replace ~100,000km)

Pros

  • Affordable RWD entry into the RB-six Skyline world
  • Light, balanced and great fun - a popular drift/grip base
  • Strong tuning aftermarket; responds well to a turbo upgrade
  • Far cheaper to buy and run than a GT-R

Cons

  • Never officially sold here - every car is a grey import of varying quality
  • RB20 is small-capacity and feels gutless below boost when stock
  • Same early oil-pump weakness as the rest of the RB family
  • Most have been modified, drifted or thrashed - history is everything

Known problems

high
Oil pump drive / oil pressure failure
Shares the narrow early oil-pump drive design of the RB family; over-revs and high-rpm tuning can crack the pump and starve the bottom end of oil.
Fix: Fit a crank collar and upgraded oil pump; watch oil pressure, especially on a built/high-boost engine.
From Any (high-rpm/modified) · ~$3000-8000 (rebuild) / $1200-2500 (preventive)
high
Hidden rust (import body)
R32 bodies rust from the inside out - behind the front wheels in the floor, around the rear quarters, screen surrounds and under factory underseal. Japanese-market cars driven in salt/wet hide it between panel layers.
Fix: Thorough underbody and panel-edge inspection (paint-depth gauge); favour dry-history cars and budget for cut-and-weld repairs.
From Any (age/coastal) · ~$1000-8000+
medium
Super-HICAS rear steering wear
Worn HICAS rack, tie arms and bushes give vague or twitchy rear-end behaviour and uneven tyre wear.
Fix: Rebuild the HICAS components or fit a HICAS lock/eliminator kit (common modification); realign.
From 120k+ km · ~$500-1500

2.5L RB25DE GTS-25 (HR32) - import

Engine
2.5L DOHC naturally-aspirated I6 (later cars with NVCS variable cam)
Config
I6 NA
Displacement
2498cc
Power
132kW @ 6400rpm
Torque
231Nm @ 4800rpm
Drivetrain
RWD
Economy
9-11 L/100km real world
Transmission
5MT, 4AT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (cam timing belt - replace ~100,000km)

Pros

  • Smooth, torquey naturally-aspirated RB-six - relaxed cruiser
  • No turbo to nurse; simplest and most reliable R32 to live with
  • RWD coupe/sedan feel of the Skyline without GT-R running costs
  • RB25 head/bottom-end is a popular base for turbo conversions

Cons

  • Grey import only - was never an Australian-delivered model
  • Modest performance compared with the turbo cars
  • Same RB oil-pump caveat if later revved hard or turbo-converted
  • Parts and history can be patchy on a 30-year-old import

Known problems

high
Timing belt neglect
Belt-driven interference engine; a snapped or skipped belt (common on imports with unknown service history) bends valves and wrecks the head.
Fix: Replace belt, tensioner and water pump on purchase if there is no proof of recent change.
From 100k+ km / 10 years · ~$600-1400 (service) vs major engine damage
medium
Hidden rust (import body)
Same R32 rust traps as the rest of the range - floors behind the front wheels, rear arches and screen surrounds.
Fix: Inspect underbody and panel edges; prefer dry-climate cars.
From Any (age/coastal) · ~$1000-6000

2.0L RB20DET GTS-4 (HNR32) - import AWD

Engine
2.0L DOHC single-turbo I6 with ATTESA E-TS AWD
Config
I6 turbo
Displacement
1998cc
Power
158kW @ 6400rpm
Torque
263Nm @ 3200rpm
Drivetrain
ATTESA E-TS AWD
Economy
10-13 L/100km real world
Transmission
5MT, 4AT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (cam timing belt - replace ~100,000km)

Pros

  • GT-R-style ATTESA E-TS all-wheel-drive grip without GT-R prices
  • Excellent wet-weather and all-season traction
  • RB20DET turbo six with a tuning-friendly aftermarket
  • Rarer and quirky - a left-field RB enthusiast pick

Cons

  • Import only - never delivered new in Australia
  • RB20 capacity is small for the heavier AWD body
  • AWD driveline (transfer, couplings) adds cost and failure points
  • ATTESA pump/accumulator and ECU faults are expensive to chase

Known problems

medium
ATTESA E-TS AWD system faults
The electronically-controlled AWD relies on a hydraulic pump, accumulator, G-sensor and solenoids; ageing seals and electronics throw the system into fault (often FWD-light flashing) and the car drives as RWD.
Fix: Diagnose pump/accumulator and G-sensor, refresh seals and fluid; specialist knowledge needed.
From 120k+ km · ~$800-3000
high
Oil pump drive failure (RB family)
Narrow early oil-pump drive can crack under over-rev or high-boost tuning, starving the bottom end.
Fix: Crank collar and upgraded oil pump; monitor oil pressure.
From Any (high-rpm) · ~$3000-8000 (rebuild)
medium
Hidden rust (import body)
Same R32 rust traps - floors behind front wheels, rear quarters, screen surrounds.
Fix: Underbody and panel-edge inspection; favour dry-history cars.
From Any (age/coastal) · ~$1000-6000

Common problems (all variants)

high
Grey-import history and compliance risk
Outside the 100 genuine AU-delivered GT-Rs, every R32 is a privately-imported used car. Watch for missing compliance plates, odometer wind-back (km in genuine miles or unverifiable), rebuilt/repairable write-offs, and engines swapped or VINs that don't match the auction sheet.
Fix: Verify compliance, import approval and PPSR/REVS; obtain the original Japanese auction sheet; independent pre-purchase inspection by an RB specialist.
From Any · ~Varies (deal-breaker)
high
Modified, tuned or tracked abuse
Most surviving R32s have been boosted, drifted or raced. Poor tunes, over-boost on stock internals/turbos, and worn driveline are common and directly tied to the oil-pump and ceramic-turbine failures.
Fix: Dyno/compression/leak-down test, scan for fault history, inspect for boost-control and engine work; price in a refresh.
From Any · ~$2000-15000 to undo
high
RB timing belt (interference engine)
All R32 RB engines are belt-driven and interference - a failed or unknown-age belt destroys valves and the head.
Fix: Replace belt, tensioner and water pump on purchase unless recent paperwork proves it was done.
From 100k km / 10 years · ~$600-1400
medium
Body rust (inner floors, arches, screen surrounds)
R32 shells rust from the inside out, hiding behind front-wheel floor sealant, in rear quarters and around the windscreen frame - worsened by wet/salt Japanese-market use.
Fix: Thorough rust inspection with a paint-depth gauge; favour dry-climate examples; cut-and-weld repair as needed.
From Any · ~$1000-8000+
low
Ageing electrics, suspension and consumables
These cars are 30+ years old: expect perished hoses, leaking seals, tired bushes, dim/failing dash and climate electrics, and worn suspension.
Fix: Budget a full consumables and suspension refresh on purchase.
From Any (age) · ~Varies