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Top issues
15 known problems · 4 high
high
Timing belt neglect (all RB engines)
All engines
high
Ceramic turbine wheel failure from over-boosting
2 of 4 engines
high
Oil pump drive collar failure (engine-destroying)
2.6L RB26DETT twin-turbo (GT-R)
At this odometer
See which of this car's known problems are due at that mileage, which should already have been dealt with, and what's coming up.
Generations
Best and worst years for the Nissan Skyline →
Before: Skyline R32 (1989-1994) →
After: Skyline R34 (1998-2002) →
Price (AUD)
$15k-$120k+
Body styles
2-door coupe, 4-door sedan
Drivetrain
Rear-wheel drive (RWD), ATTESA E-TS all-wheel drive (GTS-4 and GT-R)
Origin
Japan
Built in
Japan
Overview
The R33 was never officially sold new by Nissan Australia - every R33 on Australian roads arrived as a grey/private import (typically via SEVS/15-year/club registration schemes), so there is no local dealer history, no AU-spec recall trail, and odometer/build history depends entirely on the import auction sheet. The fleet here is overwhelmingly the turbo GTS25t (RB25DET) coupe loved by the drift/modify scene, plus the halo twin-turbo GT-R (RB26DETT); naturally-aspirated GTS (RB20E) and GTS25/GTS-4 (RB25DE) cars are far fewer and usually sedans. Buy on condition and modification history, not on the seller's story: most have been tuned, many have over-boosted ceramic turbos, the RB26 oil-pump-drive weakness is the defining GT-R failure point, and rust around the rear quarters, sunroof and floors from a Japanese life is common. A clean, unmolested, documented car is a genuine modern classic; a hammered one is a money pit. Note pre-1996 cars lack dual airbags and have struggled to meet some frontal-impact import standards.
Engines & variants
2.5L RB25DET turbo (GTS25t)
Engine
2.5L DOHC turbocharged inline-6 (single ceramic/steel turbine)
Engine code
RB25DET
Config
I6 turbo
Displacement
2498cc
Power
184kW (250PS) @ 6400rpm
Torque
294Nm @ 4800rpm
Drivetrain
Rear-wheel drive (RWD)
Economy
10-13 L/100km combined (stock)
Transmission
5MT, 4AT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (replace ~100,000km)
Pros
- Strong, tuneable RB25DET - the enthusiast's choice and easily the most common R33 here
- 250PS factory, responds well to bolt-ons and a tune
- Huge aftermarket and parts support in Australia
- Series 2 (1995+) got a revised electrical system
- Cheaper buy-in than a GT-R for similar driving fun
Cons
- Series 1 (1993-95) uses a ceramic exhaust turbine wheel that shatters when over-boosted
- Belt-driven cam timing - needs documented belt history, not chain
- Almost all examples are modified - condition varies wildly
- Oil leaks from aged cam-cover/sump/rear-main seals are near universal
- Grey-import history makes provenance hard to verify
Known problems
high
Ceramic turbine wheel failure from over-boosting
The factory turbo on Series 1 (and S2) RB25DET uses a ceramic exhaust turbine wheel. Push it past roughly 0.9 bar / 13psi, run a boost spike, or detonate, and the ceramic wheel can detach/shatter from the shaft - debris then risks the engine. Many imported cars have already been boosted on the stock turbo.
Fix: Fit a steel-wheel/aftermarket turbo before raising boost; verify a healthy boost controller and that the car has not been run hard on the ceramic unit. Compression/leakdown test pre-purchase.
medium
Cam-cover, sump and rear-main oil leaks
RB25 engines of this age weep from the rocker/cam cover gasket, sump gasket and front/rear main seals. Common and rarely catastrophic but messy and ongoing.
Fix: Reseal cam cover and sump; rear-main requires gearbox-out. Budget a seal refresh on any 1990s RB.
low
Idle hunting / stalling (AAC valve, coils, TPS)
Erratic idle, hunting and stalling are classic RB ailments, usually a dirty AAC (idle air control) valve, tired ignition coil packs, or a worn throttle position sensor.
Fix: Clean AAC valve, replace coil packs (OEM or quality Splitfire), check/replace TPS, reset ECU idle.
medium
Worn/abused driveline from drifting
As the default RWD drift platform, many GTS25t cars have hammered gearboxes, clutches, diffs and have been crashed/repaired.
Fix: Inspect clutch, synchros, diff and chassis rails for repair history; PPSR and structural check.
2.5L RB25DE NA (GTS25 / GTS-4)
Engine
2.5L DOHC naturally-aspirated inline-6 (NVCS variable inlet cam timing)
Engine code
Config
I6 NA
Displacement
2498cc
Power
140kW (190PS) @ 6400rpm
Torque
231Nm @ 4800rpm
Drivetrain
Rear-wheel drive (RWD), or ATTESA E-TS AWD on GTS-4
Economy
9-12 L/100km combined
Transmission
5MT, 4AT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (replace ~100,000km)
Pros
- Smooth, reliable NA six - no turbo to over-boost or kill
- Cheaper to buy and insure than the turbo or GT-R
- Shares the tuneable RB25 bottom end (popular turbo-conversion base)
- GTS-4 adds ATTESA all-wheel-drive grip
Cons
- Genuinely modest performance compared to the turbo cars
- Belt-driven timing still needs documented replacement
- Same age-related oil leaks and idle gremlins as all RBs
- Far less common here, mostly as sedans - thin parts/cosmetic support for the body
Known problems
low
NVCS (variable cam timing) rattle
The inlet-cam NVCS unit can rattle on cold start as it wears, a known RB25DE/DET trait.
Fix: Replace the NVCS solenoid/unit; ensure correct oil viscosity and clean oil.
medium
Cam-cover and sump oil leaks
Same age-related rocker-cover, sump and main-seal weeping as every RB of this era.
Fix: Reseal cam cover and sump as needed; rear-main with gearbox out.
low
Idle / coil pack issues
Hunting idle and misfires from a dirty AAC valve or failing coil packs - typical RB maintenance.
Fix: Clean AAC, replace coils and check TPS.
2.0L RB20E NA (base GTS)
Engine
2.0L SOHC naturally-aspirated inline-6 (multi-point EFI)
Engine code
RB20E
Config
I6 NA
Displacement
1998cc
Power
96kW (130PS) @ 5600rpm
Torque
172Nm @ 4400rpm
Drivetrain
Rear-wheel drive (RWD)
Economy
9-11 L/100km combined
Transmission
5MT, 4AT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (replace ~100,000km)
Pros
- Simple, durable single-cam NA six
- Cheapest entry into an R33 body
- Light and economical for the platform
- Easy, low-stress engine to maintain
Cons
- Underpowered - the slowest R33 by a clear margin
- Rare and usually a base-spec sedan, low desirability
- Belt-driven timing still needs servicing
- Owners often want to engine-swap it anyway
Known problems
medium
Tired/aged consumables (high-km import)
These are 30-year-old base cars; expect perished hoses, bushes, weeping seals and aged cooling.
Fix: Budget a full consumables refresh; check cooling and timing-belt history.
low
Idle / ignition gremlins
Hunting idle and misfires from AAC valve, coils/leads and a worn TPS - standard RB fare.
Fix: Clean AAC, service ignition components, reset idle.
2.6L RB26DETT twin-turbo (GT-R)
Engine
2.6L DOHC twin-turbo inline-6 (ATTESA E-TS Pro AWD)
Engine code
Config
I6 twin-turbo
Displacement
2568cc
Power
206kW (280PS, gentleman's agreement; true ~224kW) @ 6800rpm
Torque
368Nm @ 4400rpm
Drivetrain
ATTESA E-TS Pro all-wheel drive (AWD)
Economy
12-16 L/100km real world
Transmission
5MT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (replace ~100,000km)
Pros
- Iconic RB26DETT twin-turbo with ATTESA AWD - a blue-chip modern classic
- R33 RB26 (some) got a wider oil-pump drive collar - better than R32
- Immense tuning headroom, legendary chassis and Super-HICAS rear steer
- Strong and appreciating values for clean, genuine cars
Cons
- Early oil-pump-drive collar weakness can destroy the engine if over-revved/shocked
- Ceramic turbine wheels intolerant of over-boost (>1 bar) on stock turbos
- Expensive everything - parts, tyres, rebuilds, insurance
- Heavily targeted by tuners and thieves; verify it is a genuine GT-R, not a GTS-t replica
- Grey-import provenance and high values make scams/odometer fraud a real risk
Known problems
high
Oil pump drive collar failure (engine-destroying)
The RB26 oil pump is driven off a collar on the crank snout; the early narrow-engagement design can lose drive when the engine is over-revved, shock-loaded or run at sustained high rpm, dropping oil pressure and spinning bearings. R33 cranks are generally better than R32 (some have a wider collar) but it remains the defining RB26 failure - and many imports have been thrashed.
Fix: Fit an aftermarket crank collar and upgraded (N1-style) oil pump during any rebuild, run a quality oil-pressure gauge, and avoid over-revving. Confirm whether the collar mod has been done.
high
Ceramic turbine wheel failure from over-boosting
The stock twin turbos use ceramic exhaust wheels that detach/shatter above roughly 1 bar boost or under detonation - debris can be ingested. Many GT-Rs have been boosted on stock turbos.
Fix: Upgrade to steel-wheel/aftermarket turbos before raising boost; verify boost-control health and turbo history.
high
Tuner/abuse and authenticity risk
High-value, heavily-modified, sometimes crash-repaired or GTS-t-converted cars. A blown or tired RB26 is a five-figure problem, and fake GT-Rs exist.
Fix: Independent specialist inspection, compression/leakdown and boost-leak test, chassis/VIN verification, full import auction-sheet and PPSR check before buying.