Back to catalog
Nissan
Skyline
R33·
1993-1998
coupe
Caution
Price (AUD)
$15k-$120k+
Body styles
2-door coupe, 4-door sedan
Drivetrain
Rear-wheel drive (RWD), ATTESA E-TS all-wheel drive (GTS-4 and GT-R)
Origin
Japan
Built in
Japan
Overview
The R33 was never officially sold new by Nissan Australia - every R33 on Australian roads arrived as a grey/private import (typically via SEVS/15-year/club registration schemes), so there is no local dealer history, no AU-spec recall trail, and odometer/build history depends entirely on the import auction sheet. The fleet here is overwhelmingly the turbo GTS25t (RB25DET) coupe loved by the drift/modify scene, plus the halo twin-turbo GT-R (RB26DETT); naturally-aspirated GTS (RB20E) and GTS25/GTS-4 (RB25DE) cars are far fewer and usually sedans. Buy on condition and modification history, not on the seller's story: most have been tuned, many have over-boosted ceramic turbos, the RB26 oil-pump-drive weakness is the defining GT-R failure point, and rust around the rear quarters, sunroof and floors from a Japanese life is common. A clean, unmolested, documented car is a genuine modern classic; a hammered one is a money pit. Note pre-1996 cars lack dual airbags and have struggled to meet some frontal-impact import standards.
Engines & variants
2.5L RB25DET turbo (GTS25t)
Engine
2.5L DOHC turbocharged inline-6 (single ceramic/steel turbine)
Config
I6 turbo
Displacement
2498cc
Power
184kW (250PS) @ 6400rpm
Torque
294Nm @ 4800rpm
Drivetrain
Rear-wheel drive (RWD)
Economy
10-13 L/100km combined (stock)
Transmission
5MT, 4AT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (replace ~100,000km)
Pros
- Strong, tuneable RB25DET - the enthusiast's choice and easily the most common R33 here
- 250PS factory, responds well to bolt-ons and a tune
- Huge aftermarket and parts support in Australia
- Series 2 (1995+) got a revised electrical system
- Cheaper buy-in than a GT-R for similar driving fun
Cons
- Series 1 (1993-95) uses a ceramic exhaust turbine wheel that shatters when over-boosted
- Belt-driven cam timing - needs documented belt history, not chain
- Almost all examples are modified - condition varies wildly
- Oil leaks from aged cam-cover/sump/rear-main seals are near universal
- Grey-import history makes provenance hard to verify
Known problems
high
Ceramic turbine wheel failure from over-boosting
The factory turbo on Series 1 (and S2) RB25DET uses a ceramic exhaust turbine wheel. Push it past roughly 0.9 bar / 13psi, run a boost spike, or detonate, and the ceramic wheel can detach/shatter from the shaft - debris then risks the engine. Many imported cars have already been boosted on the stock turbo.
Fix: Fit a steel-wheel/aftermarket turbo before raising boost; verify a healthy boost controller and that the car has not been run hard on the ceramic unit. Compression/leakdown test pre-purchase.
medium
Cam-cover, sump and rear-main oil leaks
RB25 engines of this age weep from the rocker/cam cover gasket, sump gasket and front/rear main seals. Common and rarely catastrophic but messy and ongoing.
Fix: Reseal cam cover and sump; rear-main requires gearbox-out. Budget a seal refresh on any 1990s RB.
low
Idle hunting / stalling (AAC valve, coils, TPS)
Erratic idle, hunting and stalling are classic RB ailments, usually a dirty AAC (idle air control) valve, tired ignition coil packs, or a worn throttle position sensor.
Fix: Clean AAC valve, replace coil packs (OEM or quality Splitfire), check/replace TPS, reset ECU idle.
medium
Worn/abused driveline from drifting
As the default RWD drift platform, many GTS25t cars have hammered gearboxes, clutches, diffs and have been crashed/repaired.
Fix: Inspect clutch, synchros, diff and chassis rails for repair history; PPSR and structural check.
2.5L RB25DE NA (GTS25 / GTS-4)
Engine
2.5L DOHC naturally-aspirated inline-6 (NVCS variable inlet cam timing)
Config
I6 NA
Displacement
2498cc
Power
140kW (190PS) @ 6400rpm
Torque
231Nm @ 4800rpm
Drivetrain
Rear-wheel drive (RWD), or ATTESA E-TS AWD on GTS-4
Economy
9-12 L/100km combined
Transmission
5MT, 4AT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (replace ~100,000km)
Pros
- Smooth, reliable NA six - no turbo to over-boost or kill
- Cheaper to buy and insure than the turbo or GT-R
- Shares the tuneable RB25 bottom end (popular turbo-conversion base)
- GTS-4 adds ATTESA all-wheel-drive grip
Cons
- Genuinely modest performance compared to the turbo cars
- Belt-driven timing still needs documented replacement
- Same age-related oil leaks and idle gremlins as all RBs
- Far less common here, mostly as sedans - thin parts/cosmetic support for the body
Known problems
low
NVCS (variable cam timing) rattle
The inlet-cam NVCS unit can rattle on cold start as it wears, a known RB25DE/DET trait.
Fix: Replace the NVCS solenoid/unit; ensure correct oil viscosity and clean oil.
medium
Cam-cover and sump oil leaks
Same age-related rocker-cover, sump and main-seal weeping as every RB of this era.
Fix: Reseal cam cover and sump as needed; rear-main with gearbox out.
low
Idle / coil pack issues
Hunting idle and misfires from a dirty AAC valve or failing coil packs - typical RB maintenance.
Fix: Clean AAC, replace coils and check TPS.
2.0L RB20E NA (base GTS)
Engine
2.0L SOHC naturally-aspirated inline-6 (multi-point EFI)
Config
I6 NA
Displacement
1998cc
Power
96kW (130PS) @ 5600rpm
Torque
172Nm @ 4400rpm
Drivetrain
Rear-wheel drive (RWD)
Economy
9-11 L/100km combined
Transmission
5MT, 4AT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (replace ~100,000km)
Pros
- Simple, durable single-cam NA six
- Cheapest entry into an R33 body
- Light and economical for the platform
- Easy, low-stress engine to maintain
Cons
- Underpowered - the slowest R33 by a clear margin
- Rare and usually a base-spec sedan, low desirability
- Belt-driven timing still needs servicing
- Owners often want to engine-swap it anyway
Known problems
medium
Tired/aged consumables (high-km import)
These are 30-year-old base cars; expect perished hoses, bushes, weeping seals and aged cooling.
Fix: Budget a full consumables refresh; check cooling and timing-belt history.
low
Idle / ignition gremlins
Hunting idle and misfires from AAC valve, coils/leads and a worn TPS - standard RB fare.
Fix: Clean AAC, service ignition components, reset idle.
2.6L RB26DETT twin-turbo (GT-R)
Engine
2.6L DOHC twin-turbo inline-6 (ATTESA E-TS Pro AWD)
Config
I6 twin-turbo
Displacement
2568cc
Power
206kW (280PS, gentleman's agreement; true ~224kW) @ 6800rpm
Torque
368Nm @ 4400rpm
Drivetrain
ATTESA E-TS Pro all-wheel drive (AWD)
Economy
12-16 L/100km real world
Transmission
5MT
Timing chain / belt / gear
Belt-driven (replace ~100,000km)
Pros
- Iconic RB26DETT twin-turbo with ATTESA AWD - a blue-chip modern classic
- R33 RB26 (some) got a wider oil-pump drive collar - better than R32
- Immense tuning headroom, legendary chassis and Super-HICAS rear steer
- Strong and appreciating values for clean, genuine cars
Cons
- Early oil-pump-drive collar weakness can destroy the engine if over-revved/shocked
- Ceramic turbine wheels intolerant of over-boost (>1 bar) on stock turbos
- Expensive everything - parts, tyres, rebuilds, insurance
- Heavily targeted by tuners and thieves; verify it is a genuine GT-R, not a GTS-t replica
- Grey-import provenance and high values make scams/odometer fraud a real risk
Known problems
high
Oil pump drive collar failure (engine-destroying)
The RB26 oil pump is driven off a collar on the crank snout; the early narrow-engagement design can lose drive when the engine is over-revved, shock-loaded or run at sustained high rpm, dropping oil pressure and spinning bearings. R33 cranks are generally better than R32 (some have a wider collar) but it remains the defining RB26 failure - and many imports have been thrashed.
Fix: Fit an aftermarket crank collar and upgraded (N1-style) oil pump during any rebuild, run a quality oil-pressure gauge, and avoid over-revving. Confirm whether the collar mod has been done.
high
Ceramic turbine wheel failure from over-boosting
The stock twin turbos use ceramic exhaust wheels that detach/shatter above roughly 1 bar boost or under detonation - debris can be ingested. Many GT-Rs have been boosted on stock turbos.
Fix: Upgrade to steel-wheel/aftermarket turbos before raising boost; verify boost-control health and turbo history.
high
Tuner/abuse and authenticity risk
High-value, heavily-modified, sometimes crash-repaired or GTS-t-converted cars. A blown or tired RB26 is a five-figure problem, and fake GT-Rs exist.
Fix: Independent specialist inspection, compression/leakdown and boost-leak test, chassis/VIN verification, full import auction-sheet and PPSR check before buying.
Common problems (all variants)
high
Timing belt neglect (all RB engines)
Every R33 engine (RB20E, RB25DE, RB25DET, RB26DETT) is belt-driven, not chain. An overdue or unknown-history belt can snap and bend valves on these interference engines.
Fix: Replace the timing belt, tensioner, idlers and water pump as a set if history is unknown; document it.
medium
Rust - rear quarters, sunroof, floors, battery tray
Japanese-market cars rust around the rear wheel arches/quarters, sunroof surround, boot floor, sills and battery tray; some arrive with hidden filler over prior repairs.
Fix: Thorough rust inspection (lift carpets/boot trim, check arches); favour dry, well-kept examples and budget for rectification.
medium
Grey-import history and odometer/provenance risk
No factory Australian delivery means no local recall/service trail; history rests on the Japanese auction sheet, which can be misread or the car re-shelled/wound back.
Fix: Obtain the original auction sheet, verify compliance/import paperwork, PPSR check, and use a marque specialist for pre-purchase inspection.
low
Super-HICAS rear-steer faults
GT-R and some GTS cars use Super-HICAS four-wheel-steering; the actuator/solenoid and bushes wear, giving vague or twitchy rear-end behaviour. Many owners fit a HICAS lock/delete.
Fix: Repair the HICAS components or fit a quality lock-bar kit; check tie-rod and bush condition.
low
Aged suspension, brakes and electrics
Bushes, ball joints, shocks, brake rotors/calipers and 1990s electrics (window regulators, climate flaps, dash) are all due for attention on 25-30 year old cars.
Fix: Standard older-performance-car refresh; prioritise brakes and suspension before driving hard.